|
Battery Tender
S100 Wash
Engine oil & Filter
Transmission Oil
Driveshaft Oil
Rear Drive Oil
Brake Fluid
Clutch Fluid
Fogging Oil
Fuel Stabilizer
S100 Corrosion Protectant
Protect-All
Dow Covers
|
|
Winter Storage Tips
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The purpose of this bulletin is to give you an idea of what you need to do to prepare your Motorcycle for WINTER STORAGE. Improper storage can lead to many problems, such as dead batteries, clogged carburetors, rusty fuel tanks, faded paint, and even seized engines in extreme cases . Every storage situation is different, please read as many of these suggestions as possible and pick the ones that fit your situation.
The fuel system seems to be one of the most neglected systems in the winter storage ritual, (or lack of). The goal here is to keep the fuel tank from rusting, and to keep the many jets and very small passageways in the carbs from getting clogged.
1. The easiest way to do this is to treat the gasoline with a gasoline stabilizer, such as stabil. Fill the fuel tank with fuel until the inside is completely covered, this keeps rust from forming. Add the proper amount of stabil to the fuel tank, & drain the carburetor float bowls.
Gasoline left to sit for long
periods of time turns into a varnish type substance that can clog the carbs. Spray the carbs & linkage with WD40.
2. If you can not leave your fuel tank full of fuel, then drain the tank completely and spray the inside of the tank
thoroughly, with S100 Corrosion Protectant
3. The Engine oil & filter should be changed BEFORE Winter storage. This also goes for transmission, driveshaft, rear end & fork oil. Water and contaminants in the old oil will combine to form acids that can ruin parts.
4. Next, remove the spark plugs and add about a tablespoon of oil to each cylinder, put the transmission in gear and turn the rear wheel a few times to coat the cylinder walls with oil. Put the spark plugs back in.
5.
Now is also a very good time to replace the brake and clutch fluids. Contaminated fluid can cause master cylinders seals to deteriorate, cylinder bores to corrode and calipers to seize. Especially when the brakes are not going to be used for a long time.
6. The battery should be removed from the bike, cleaned, levels checked and charged for twelve hours every three to four weeks. Pay special attention to the battery charger!, a 6 or 12 volt, 1 to 3 amp charger works best, depending on the battery you have. Keeping the battery charged prevents sulfation, a condition that ruins batteries.
7. Clean the motorcycle thoroughly, place it on the centerstand and reduce the tire pressures to 20psi approx. The sidewalls of the tires, (not the tread), should be treated with armor all or any good rubber preservative.
8. Chrome and
aluminum parts should be sprayed lightly with S100 Corrosion Protectant. Painted surfaces should be cleaned and waxed. Rubber and vinyl parts should be coated with Armor all. The exhaust should be sprayed with S100 Corrosion Protectant inside the tailpipe and on the outer surface. Stuff the muffler with rags to keep small creatures out
9. The Motorcycle can now be covered to protect it from sunlight, dust and minor scratches. Hopefully these suggestions will make your motorcycle ready to go this spring with
minimum time and money spent.
Sincerely, RICH GEORGE
WE HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED IN STOCK TO STORE YOUR MOTORCYCLE PROPERLY. PLEASE STOP BY AND SEE US IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
